My codebreaker works a lot better with the adjustments, and I can bring it to office nerf wars without having to worry about whether or not my shots will actually fire.Ĭodebreaker is nifty and I would totally use it during hvz incubation to smash the patriarchy. It would be nice to take a peek into the internals and see if some of those locks couldn't be removed, but I'll leave that to someone else. So, all in all, I would call my "modding" attempt a successful one. Plus, it matches the bow arms almost perfectly (, string color here is "Neon Turquoise"). Even so, the increase in reliability alone was well worth the hassle. However, I didn't notice much increase in power without overtightening the spring and causing misfires. All of my darts, including the beaten-up elite darts that have probably spent several hvz games inside a clip, managed to fire without a problem. The results were once again positive: no more misfires (or at least, fewer of them by far). If it's too tight, you end up skipping darts more frequently than before, and even shredding them. If the string is too loose, you obviously lose a lot of power.
NERF FOR REBELLE TRIAL
Unfortunately, figuring out the right length required a good deal of trial and error.
I measured the new cord to be about the same length, but gave it a little extra room to make it easier to adjust down the road. You might need a friend, a pair of pliars, or a set of teeth (preferably your own) to do this, but it's fairly easy and you don't have to cut the string. In order to remove the stock string, all you have to do is push it so the knot starts showing and then untie it ( ). The solution was to replace the string with the one Drac suggests in his review video (link:, amazon link: ). The problem is probably that my darts had spent too many games being slowly compressed in my clips, so they weren't extending down far enough for the string to catch them. Moving on, the second problem was that many of my elite, non-rebelle darts didn't catch: I could pull the trigger, but the string would snap past them without actually launching them. I'm not sure about stefans: if they could stay in place, then they could probably work. Sadly, regular suction darts, dart tag darts, and whistlers don't fit through the barrel, and even if they could, the cylinder wouldn't be able to rotate without further modification. The results were great: the codebreaker can now take any type of clip-system dart. (You don't need to trim as much off as I did in the picture-that was the only place my wirecutters would reach. Instead, I trimmed the dart posts with a pair of wirecutters, so that the darts would be able to sit further back. not far enough back), but since the bow arms were already attached at that point, I had no way of opening the blaster up and removing said lock. There must be a lock in the blaster that prevents it from firing if a dart isn't detected (i.e. As a result, the bow would cock and slide the dart into position, but I was unable to release the trigger. To begin with, I noticed that my off-brand darts didn't quite reach as far back in the cylinder as the rebelle darts, despite being positioned as far back as they could go. I knew I had to make it not suck as much. I could see myself using it during an hvz incubation, but definitely not as a primary weapon mid-game or against other nerf weapons.īut then I tried it with some of my old elite (non-rebelle) darts, along with some of my off-brand suction/clip system darts. The 8-dart cylinder has pretty good capacity for a non-clip-system blaster, and it shoots reasonably well for the low expectations I had going into it. Thanks to a recent Amazon sale, I was able to get my hands on the Rebelle Codebreaker Crossbow and try it out.
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